Excellent thanks.  ALEX

Depends on your weight but I am riding the regular Vigors and I weigh 170lbs. I have two big big guys that I ride with on a regular basis and they ride the Vigors also and they weigh 205 and 198lbs. Both the big guys have not had to true their wheels for 3 years. You can use the Rolf chart for weights but I can tell you the regular Rolf wheels are plenty strong. If you ride really pot holed streets you can get the RS version. Vigors are the best in my opinion. If you could buy the SL front with RS or regular rear Vigor that would be nice since you would have best aero and durability.

http://www.rolfprima.com/products.php

I'll second what Redcorn is saying regarding the wheels. My last set were the Rolf Vigor RS and I now use Fulcrum Racing 1s. In my years of use, I haven't had the need to true either set and I've hit some pretty bad potholes. FWIW, I weigh 135lbs. 

You would be fine with Vigor SL www.wisecyclebuys.com carries them a little cheaper and they match prices, they also will match buy it now prices on Ebay.

My latest review is the KCNC brakes. I give them two thumbs up over the Zero Gravity brakes although they don't have the stopping power of the Zero Gravity meanning, you have to plan your stops 5 feet a head of zero gravity and with zero gravity you have to plan 5 feet ahead of Dura Ace, Sram RED and Campy. KCNC is cheaper than ZG and solves some of the problems ZG had. The first one is centering, KCNC brakes stay centered and is easy to set up. Second the quick release levers open wide enough to accomodate all wheel changes. Three KCNC uses stock Shimano brake pad holders so the pads are easy to swap out and are cheaper. Fourth is they are lighter than ZG at 164gms with hardware and pads.

Now that being said would I buy KCNC brakes over Sram Red, Dura Ace or Campy? No, unless you are shooting for a sub 15lb, sub 14 or sub 13lb bike there is no reason to sacrifice brake performance for weight savings. If your bike is currently not anywhere close to sub 15lb don't give up those brakes for ZG or KCNC. So far my bike is 12.9lbs with the following: KCNC brakes, Vuma Quad cranks, Mavic Ultimates, Sram REd, SLC SL, Easton bars, Specialized Toupe saddle, Speed play pedals, Ritchey 4 axis Stem. With Rolf wheels its 13.77lbs. I will post pics later.

I just sold off my Vuma Quad cranks and was not impressed with those cranks at all. I went back to the Sram Red cranks. I still love in this order for cranksets. Red, Dura Ace and Campy UT. I still believe the best set up you can do and save serious money is Soloist Carbon with stock Sram Red Group and Rolf wheels, done deal.

Some seriously good info. I wish I had read some of your reviews earlier. I just bought the 07 Ksyrium ES wheels for $800 Campy version. I had the Elites before (my budget is not the same as yours) and the only problem was I had to really crank down on the rear quick release so the wheel wouldn't slip in the dropouts and I never had to do this with my Campy wheels.

 I am just building up an 07 Cervelo R3 now. Just have to adjust the brakes, put on the handlebar tape and cages tonight and she is going to hit the road for the first time! My previous two bikes are Campy so I went with the full Record package and UT cranks. I was just wondering why you rate the campy Record UT Cranks behind the Shimano and SRAM. I like Campy simply because I am used to it. I almost bought SRAM Red since I have heard good things but stayed with what was compatible with my other bikes and familiar. Honestly what I didn't like about SRAM is that you have to push the lever further to shift one way as opposed to another. Not sure if I would like that. Also you have to push it once for each shift. What I like about Campy is that  can shift from the hoods or drops and can drop it 5 or 6 gears at a time with the thumb shifter and 3 gears at a time with the lever going to an easier gear. I also like being able to trim the front derailleur. I don't have the basis for comparison but I didn't love the Shimano DA shifting when I tried it on my friend's bike. I guess I was just not used to it.

cycledan:

Some seriously good info. I wish I had read some of your reviews earlier. I just bought the 07 Ksyrium ES wheels for $800 Campy version. I had the Elites before (my budget is not the same as yours) and the only problem was I had to really crank down on the rear quick release so the wheel wouldn't slip in the dropouts and I never had to do this with my Campy wheels.

 I am just building up an 07 Cervelo R3 now. Just have to adjust the brakes, put on the handlebar tape and cages tonight and she is going to hit the road for the first time! My previous two bikes are Campy so I went with the full Record package and UT cranks. I was just wondering why you rate the campy Record UT Cranks behind the Shimano and SRAM. I like Campy simply because I am used to it. I almost bought SRAM Red since I have heard good things but stayed with what was compatible with my other bikes and familiar. Honestly what I didn't like about SRAM is that you have to push the lever further to shift one way as opposed to another. Not sure if I would like that. Also you have to push it once for each shift. What I like about Campy is that  can shift from the hoods or drops and can drop it 5 or 6 gears at a time with the thumb shifter and 3 gears at a time with the lever going to an easier gear. I also like being able to trim the front derailleur. I don't have the basis for comparison but I didn't love the Shimano DA shifting when I tried it on my friend's bike. I guess I was just not used to it.

The UT cranks are a masterpiece of engineering and are pieces art. However they fall behind the Sram and Dura Ace for total stiffness is all. The UT is lighter than Sram and Dura Ace but has a one draw back and thats the press fit bearings. You cannot work on these bearings yourself so you cannot fit them with ceramic bearings or replace them as easy as Sram and Dura Ace, only one side of the bearing is sealed so contamination is likely if you ride in wet parts of the country. You really cannot go wrong when you go with the top of the line drive trains from Campy, Sram and Shimano. It comes down to personal preferences, quality of materials, weight, ease of setup with maintenance and cost factor. I like the fact Red and Shimano can use the same wheels, this puts Campy alone. The grip on the campy was kind of narrow and I had a hard time laying down on them in the aero position, it hurt the palms of my hands due to the little bump on the hoods.

Like I said though both Campy and Shimano know their weaknesses after Sram Red came out and next year both companies are going to do a complete redesign. I would not upgrade drivetrains this year and wait till Dura Ace 7900 comes out as well as the new Record to see what they offer in improvements. If I had to get a grouppo now though, Red would be the only group just my 2 cents of info.

Agree with you about the Zipp quality.  I own the 606 tubulars and the have inconsistant spoke tension out of the box and it is impossible to even get them to the correct tension as per the manufacturer recommendations (it will not dish correctly).  They are flexy (I find that the SLC BB could also be a bit stiffer as well).  Note that I only weigh 61kg.

The best wheels I have used are the Tokens C30A wheelset.  I use these for general training.  I definitely wouldn't mind trying the crazy expensive Mavic Carbone Ultimates or the Lightweights.  These sound like they would be stiff, fast and no hassle maintenance.

 Comparing the Tokens to 606 - 606 feel faster, slices through the air better.

Redcorn:

The UT is lighter than Sram and Dura Ace but has a one draw back and thats the press fit bearings. You cannot work on these bearings yourself so you cannot fit them with ceramic bearings or replace them as easy as Sram and Dura Ace, only one side of the bearing is sealed so contamination is likely if you ride in wet parts of the country.

Redcorn thanks for the reviews. It is nice to read some "real" reviews of products...

Just an FYI...

I just replaced my Record UT bearings with sealed ceramic replacements...

I used this bearing extractor to remove the old damaged bearings...

And a copper pipe to seat the new bearings...

The process probably took 10 minutes...

Good find on the UT crank bearing extractor. I had been looking for one of those for a long time. I can't believe they have those in stock. Good idea using the copper pipe, maybe a PVC pipe would be better just incase you slip. I have Sram Red now but if I had Campy I would definitely buy that tool.

leegil:

Agree with you about the Zipp quality.  I own the 606 tubulars and the have inconsistant spoke tension out of the box and it is impossible to even get them to the correct tension as per the manufacturer recommendations (it will not dish correctly).  They are flexy (I find that the SLC BB could also be a bit stiffer as well).  Note that I only weigh 61kg.

The best wheels I have used are the Tokens C30A wheelset.  I use these for general training.  I definitely wouldn't mind trying the crazy expensive Mavic Carbone Ultimates or the Lightweights.  These sound like they would be stiff, fast and no hassle maintenance.

 Comparing the Tokens to 606 - 606 feel faster, slices through the air better.

I like the Zipp Rims they are very good as far as aero goes but the spokes and hubs leave much to be desired. After my 404 tubulars and clinchers went out of true so much I had this company build me up a pair of Zipp 404 tubular rims using sapim black spokes and White Industries Hubs H2 model for cheaper than the stock Zipps, plus they were able to use higher spoke tension then stock Zipps so spoke wind up was not present, giving that feeling of instant power transfer. They also built me a powertap Zipp wheel for trainning and both Zipp wheels have not come out of true yet after a year. The White industries hubs are the same hubs Rolf uses so the coasting and free wheel action is amazing.

http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/zipp.php

http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/zippsemicustom.php

Seriously look at this company if you are in the market for Zipp wheels, you can have a custom set built for 400 dollars cheaper than stock zipps and they will be better for reliability and durability. Great customer service to and they warranty the their work.