Okay, I know how to change a tire and have done it countless times. Last night I just got my Reynolds Solitued wheels and had a HELL of a hard time putting on my continental 4000s tires. I went through 2 tubes as I pinched them towards the end and not to mention my frickin fingers. Folks when I say they're tight, they're tight!! Any tricks on putting them on?? I would hate to go through this on the road and end up with no tubes because I pinched them at the end. Thanks in advance. Oh if it makes any difference the same tires go on easy with out any levers on my Easton EA90 Aero wheels. I'm looking for advice when out on the road so heating up the tires or putting powder etc may not be an option.

get the smallest tubes- 18-23!! i had have problem when i switch from 25s to 23s, no matter what wheels i am using. the tires will break in after you do it a few times.

 That may help so the tube sits snuggly against the rib to avoid the pinching I suppose. The tires are not new but the wheels are. Do you still think the tires will still break in?

i thought the tires were new. for some reason with a new setup sometimes i have that problem. it always seems to get easier with a little time though. i wouldn't sweat it.

I use tubeless Hutchinsons, so I don't have to worry about pinching tubes, but those Hutchs have carbon beads and they are super tight. I soap up the tire beads, and the inside and outside of the sidewalls. Make sure the other bead has dropped in the rim cavity and isn't sitting on the bead seat. Use steel tire levers. I would recommend going tubeless to anyone: they're great. No flats ever.

Pre stretch maybe?

I enjoyed such tight tires on my Zipp 404's, but probably not as tough.

I'm guessing your 4000s's were new, and I've given consideration to installing a new set of them on a different set of rims, and pressurizing them up tho their max psi/rim max psi which ever is less, and let them 'stretch out'.

I don't know if this is the answer, but I've noticed that when I put certain tires on my Dura-ace rims, they were very hard to get on, but later when swapping front to back, not challenges.

Some rims definitely are a tid bit bigger.

Pre stretching on your Easton rims may be the solution...

ALoha,

Jeff

 

 No, the tires are not new, the Reynolds wheels are. The tires came off my Easton's Aero wheels and on those wheels they're a piece of cake but on the Reynods..DAMN! I've got them on and off and on to see if they stretch out but nothing yet. I just don't want to go through this when I'm out riding. Well hopefully they'll stretch out a bit more on these frickin wheels.

i had a hard time getting new 23s on my bontragers at first. it's easier now. i don't see how the rim dimensions could be different on your reynolds. i suspect it will get easier with practice on them. i was worried about not being able to change a flat on the road too with mine but i got it done and it's easy now. i don't know what it could be but i've never ridden reynolds. maybe someone else with reynolds can chime in?

the trick is two levers!!

 First, make sure you are using plastic/nylon tire levers, at least two, (obvious I know, but some people are still using metal levers). Second, apply some talcum/baby powder to inside of you tires and spread evenly around the tire (this will allow the tube to move freely inside the tire as you are setting the bead). Third, with your mouth, blow a bit of air inside the tube, so that it will take the round form of the tube (only a bit of air...this will allow the tube to set into the pocket and be less prone to get caught between bead and rim sidewall). Fourth, install valve first, and then work around the tire inserting only one bead of the tire. Fifth, return to the valve hole and begin inserting second bead of the tire.  After you get about five or six inches of the bead inserted around the valve hole, be sure to push the valve into the tire as much as possible and then pull out firmly in order to make sure that the thicker part of tube at valve attachment will be settled. Sixth, proceed inserting second bead using your fingers as much as possible (first), and the begin using the two tire levers to coax the side wall in (by using two levers instead of one you are able to wedge in more tire at each pull and more importantly, the bead that is already inserted will be less prone to slide out). Lastly, when you get to the tight part you will again want to use two tire levers. Be sure to use the hook at the end of your levers to attach lever to spokes while you are using second lever to wedge the bead in. Anytime you insert a lever between bead and rim sidewall you want to push in as far as possible and then gently pull out in order to make sure that you are not snagging your tube. All of the steps listed above are equally important, but the most overlooked our steps two and three.

 

Good luck.

EM3

Whenever I have trouble (and holy f is it ever frustrating), I actually use 3 levers (I have a set with 3 that stick together). I get 2 stuck in as close together as possible and hold them in place with my knees and then use the 3rd to force the tire over the rim. Make sure nobody is around watching you because you'll look like a dweeb, but it usually works. I've acutally broken a bigger sweat changing some tires than I have on the ride. I've never had a problem on the road though, luckily.

yeah, metal levers are evil. they cause more harm than good.

luckily i've never needed to use 3 levers! i do what you do with 2 levers. it's probably harder but works.

I'm talking about the metal levers that are plastic coated, like what Soma Fabrications makes. The all plastic levers will snap in two with super tight tires. What I use now is the Crank Bros. speedlever, and finish it off with a steel lever. With a bit of air in that tube, and using the palm of your hand as much as possible, you can keep the tube out of harm's way. http://www.biketiresdirect.com/tjzz/tire_levers/products.htm

You need multiple levers, lots of them if necessary. Use plastic levers but I typically carry a couple of types, skinny lightweight and  heavier-duty mountain bike levers. I probably own about 4 or 5 lever sets (including an 8-inch long metal monster for downhill mountain bike tires).

First, inflate the tube slighly just enough so it stays out of the way of the tire bead. To put a tire on, start with your fingers (if possible). When the fit starts to get too tight for fingers, slip levers at intervals under the unseated  bead. Start levering the bead onto the rim with each of your levers. It will get tougher and tougher to lever the bead up over the edge of the rim. This is where you might need heavy-duty levers (I have snapped lighweight levers at this point). Keep working around the bead. Eventually, you might find you can lever the bead onto the rim sidewall, but not fitting properly over the rim-edge.  If you can't slip a lever under the bead while it is stuck at rim-level, you need to go back to using your fingers. Start at edge, just where the tire bead come off the rim and goes in a straight line across the rim sidewall. Put your fingers of the rim ad push outward with your thumbs at the edge of the rim. Keep moving across. If you can't push on that one side any more (the bead has become too tight), start from the other side. Eventually, it will snap on, or you will have a very small piece of the bead hanging off the rim that won't budge. In this case, you might need  a blunt metal object (I use the edge of a metal lever) to push the bead up over the edge, being careful not to scratch the sidewall. Generally, I've never had to go further than this. If you can't get that last bit up, I would suggest you leave it for a while (say overnight or longer) to stretch in that position. 

If it seems hopeless or impossible, you probably need to shop for new tires. If your tube keeps getting pinched by the tire bead, you probably should try a smaller tube size. Hope this helps!

Alot of the higher end race wheels use an oversized bead diameter, such as zipp.  To achieve a tight fit.  I never use more then one lever, but more or less follow everyones elses instructions, I never pre-stretch except for tubulars. 

For those people still using velox rim strips or other similar rim strips, STOP.  Although they still are the best bet in certain rims, such as a dt swiss tk 7.1 that I just built up the other day, but for most race wheels that need rims strips, use something like zipp, sram, or fsa, I perfer fsa, the velox type rim strips are thick enough to make the rims bed extra wide and extra hard to change tires, the fsa strips are something like half as thick, and make it much easier to change tires.