Yes, Ergonova LTD's. I also changed seat post to LTD. I have quite "nice" stock finest road parts here so it's very nice to build bikes as this.

 Frame is 58cm.

I wouldn't call King Cage's Titanium cages heavy? 28g when most CF crap is 20-32g...and those work best!

 Wheels are subjecto to change in future. They are not up to line to R3SL....

 Bar tape is Fizik. 

Samu Ilonen:

 Wheels are subjecto to change in future. They are not up to line to R3SL....

Whats wrong with the shamal ultras? You just after weight saving? Apart from going tubular how are you going to improve on these as an £7-800 clincher wheelset?

 A few upgrades: replaced Ultegra 6600 with Full SRAM. Red Shifters, crank, BB, and cables. Everything else is Force. 

Currently at 16.1 pounds, but when I finally get around to replacing the tubes it should go down at least 50-100 grams.  Desperation called me to transplant the tubes from my commuter to my road bike back in late August and I still haven't gotten around to putting something decent in there.

Question for the SRAM folks, is it just me or does it seem to shift very violently compared to Shimano?  Just toying around with it on the trainer the last 2 hours had me a little worried every time I shifted as I thought I had pushed the chain right off. I don't remember it being that rough on the test ride.

Samu Ilonen:

R3SL Rotorized...one friend's bike. Ciamillo GLS brakes, Rotor cranks, 3T LTD parts, silver Nokon's...nice?

 

Samu Ilonen:

R3SL Rotorized...one friend's bike. Ciamillo GLS brakes, Rotor cranks, 3T LTD parts, silver Nokon's...nice?

 

They are not 100% compatible but like 99%. Middle range of cassette works perfect, biggest and smallest almoust.  But customer is thinking to uprgrade to FFWD F4 so weight will drop like 600g wheels/tyres, so it quite much in bike like this. Alloy clincher will never be same as light carbon tubular....

I must point that this is one of our customers bike. It not build to be super-weight weenie bike but seriuly light and for fast sprints...yes, it's un-UCI-legal even those wheel but that kind of heavy for hobby use.... :D

alessandro:

alessandro:

multiple stem lengths.  started with +/- 6 120mm, now with +/-10 130mm...gonna settle with -17 120mm




me during an ITT

 

 

just got the -17 degree 120mm stem.  i still have to raise the hoods but the bar position feels really good especially while sprinting

Saw you and your bike at the Red Trolley crit yesterday... great job out there man. I'm in D's for UCIrvine and also rock the antifreeze radars, lol.

Picture from yesterday as well.

 My idea to way build nice S1:

 -EA Circuit wheels to match S1's "aero" look in budget

-Rival set to cut weight and add quality

-Rotor seat, cut weight and add real bike look.

7,95kg w/o bottle cages and pedals. 6,7kg with light wheels in same condition.

 King Cage Iris's are nice....

 As usual, this is always first step.....

Samu IIonen.....snap. 14lb 4oz as pictured with "CF crap" cages !!

Samu, it always amazes me how few people "face" the BB sleeve before inserting the BB. Well done.

Julian13:

Samu, it always amazes me how few people "face" the BB sleeve before inserting the BB. Well done.

- You should never need to do this on a CF bike, the bonded BB shell is machined to pretty fine tolerances already. On alu bikes though, definitely.

 Just try to face any CF frame? Then  you know that its really needet still. Even Cervelo's. They use 2-piece BB shell so it's possible that they are NOT level. I always take BB off from "ready" build Cervelo's. Same goes to headsets. They need more grease to survive in Finland.

 It has no point not to do it if you have good tools like Park Tools. But they cost quite much...and no point to use cheap ones.

 Why build multi-K€ bikes and put nice bb that will not live long because builder was no professional...?

Thank you Samu, your comments mirror my experience exactly.

If the BB cups bonded into the carbon fibre frame are not level you have a problem facing and running a tap through the threads won't fix!!

I agree it is good practive, whether it is necessary or not is very debatable.

 Yes! It feels SO silly that people build some super-expensive TT-bikes and don't care is BB what quality and faced or not? I will never again use Shimano BB as exsample.They suck so bad...

Same goes for Zipp wheels. They are faster if you put some clearcoat over and sand them smooth. Dimples are made to make  golf balls more stabile, not faster. Ok, IF you need more stabile TT-wheels, then tey have place....

 Marketing crap is so amazing amout in bike industry. Look BB30? Yes, axle is shorter and stiffer...and bearing are more narrow, greating weaker frame....

I just sell what I see being best quality. But I aways like to hear reason and test / think myself.