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2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

Last post 10-04-2020 11:01 PM by Jimbomason. 11 replies.
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  • 04-08-2014 11:28 AM

    • snowbeer
    • Not Ranked
    • Joined on 04-08-2014
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • Posts 4

    2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    I've read through all the posts around this combination and especially all of Hutch's tips. I don't think I would be as far along as I am without those tips. However I'm struggling with exact spacer/preloader/wave spring combo that should be used for this combination. I'm building up a new 2014 R3, since I am not experienced with bottom bracket installation I had the LBS put the BB and crank in and then I took it home. The LBS told me they spent 30min on the phone with Cervelo and SRAM trying to figure out how to get the BB30 Force 22 crankset to work. Last night I noticed that my non drive side crank arm is about 5mm outboard compared to the drive side crank arm. The chainline on the driveside appears to be exactly where it needs to be (at least it matches sheldon brown's old school recommendations within 0.1mm, so I think the spacers on the non drive side is off. The guy who put it in used some amount of spacers on the drive side and a wave spring on the drive side (which I read is not what is supposed to be done). The non drive side has a preload adjuster nut that is quite thick but no spacers. I've read that the wave spring should be on the non drive side. This post tells me I should probably ditch the preload adjuster nut on the non drive side and put in thinner spacers and a wave spring, as well as ditch the wave spring on the drive side (which will change my chainline unless I need to find different spacers for that side). http://forums.cervelo.com/forums/t/11775.aspx?PageIndex=2 So I'm considering taking it apart, replacing the wave spring with some spacers on the drive side, removing the preloader on the non drive side, and putting in spacers and a wave spring. Is that the direction to go? Here's a couple pictures: https://db.tt/5IMF2MUh https://db.tt/LxmmjWz3 https://db.tt/RQT43e8x
    2014 R3 - Force 22
  • 04-08-2014 1:31 PM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    Drive side: ~12.5-13mm spacer, should be supplied with crankset, if not amount a set of spacers measuring that.

    Non-drive side: remove preload-nut adjuster and ~5mm spacer that is supplied with crankset, instead add 2 to 3 shims/thin spacers, plus the wave-spring washer

    The number of spacers + wave-spring washer will determine the amount of preload on the bearings before you apply final torque on the drive side.  So, if too much preload, remove one shim/thin spacer and try again until everything is within an acceptable range before final torque.

    Here is that drive side spacer

    and below drive side and non-drive side finished install

    You can't see the shim/thin spacers, but they are between bearing dust cover and wave-spring washer

    Hope that helps.

     

  • 04-08-2014 1:44 PM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

     I'm running the same setup.

     Here's NDS:

    Here's DS:

     

     

    Hutch outlines it perfectly. You get them to follow his instructions and you're good to go.

    2014 R3
  • 04-08-2014 3:00 PM In reply to

    • snowbeer
    • Not Ranked
    • Joined on 04-08-2014
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • Posts 4

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    This is great info guys. I'll go find the parts I need from the LBS and take care of this. When I make these modifications, my cranks will get very close to the chainstay on the non drive side (certainly
    2014 R3 - Force 22
  • 04-08-2014 3:27 PM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    snowbeer:
    This is great info guys. I'll go find the parts I need from the LBS and take care of this. When I make these modifications, my cranks will get very close to the chainstay on the non drive side (certainly
     

     They'll be close, but not ultra close. Luckily the Force 22 crank arms are super stiff, so you don't need to worry about any flex. If you tune the Yaw FD perfectly however you're not going to have much space in between the DS crankarm and the FD when it's on the big ring. I'll take a pic of my clearances for you if you'd like. Remember, the arms camber out a bit, so they're designed with clearance in mind.

     Make sure you follow the instructions for setting up the FD. It's not like a normal FD setup. Rest assured though, once it's tuned properly you are going to fall in love with your front shifts. That, plus no chain rub in any combination of gears, is amazing for a mech group.

     

     

     

    2014 R3
  • 04-08-2014 3:43 PM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    No problem whatsoever, in fact I use a Bontrager cadence sensor magnet (pictured below) with a Garmin cadence sensor and the arm still spins freely around on my 2011 R3's NDS chainstay... the 2014 R series chainstay may be a bit different (a bit more rounded), but the actual space wont be a problem.

    As johnnyscans says, the tighter space wil be between FD cage and drive side crankarm... and his experience is positive.

     

  • 04-09-2014 10:44 PM In reply to

    • snowbeer
    • Not Ranked
    • Joined on 04-08-2014
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • Posts 4

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    I'm now running the same setup on my 2014 R3. Now that I understand what has to be done to make this work and look at the instructions that come with the force22 crank, you basically follow the instructions for BB30, but include the 13mm lipped spacer (I measured it with calipers and it is 13.00mm) on the drive side, even though the instructions say to leave the 13mm spacer out for Red/Force. I used three 0.5mm clear spacers following the SRAM instructions, everything went together well. It seems like my NDS is out 1-2mm farther than the DS but my legs are probably not the same length within 2mm! I could drop a spacer or two but everything is feeling nice the way it is. Interestingly enough, the SRAM instructions that came with the crank say "BB specifications" at the top, and the last thing in the list is "PressFit 30 - 79mm", which if I understand correctly is exactly BBRight. Oddly then, it doesn't have a portion of the instructions for that listed option (all the others do, i.e. BB30, BB30-1A, GXP, etc). I need to figure out why my posts have no carriage returns in them! Thanks again for all of your help!
    2014 R3 - Force 22
  • 04-09-2014 10:54 PM In reply to

    • rmerka
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 05-18-2012
    • Texas Hill Country
    • Posts 1,421

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    snowbeer:
    I need to figure out why my posts have no carriage returns in them!
    It's because you're not using internet explorer or Firefox. Only those two browsers work with any kind of formatting for this forum.
    2012 R5
    2012 S5
    2014 S3 My son's bike now!
    My Ti bike

    Had a fantastic time at --> COR!!!
  • 05-05-2014 10:11 PM In reply to

    • saad
    • Top 500 Contributor
    • Joined on 06-12-2008
    • Posts 82

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    Hey Guys Doing this, but when I begin to tighten the crank bolt, even before its anywhere near the required torque setting, the wavy washer flattens, and the crank is quite stiff to turn. Im using the Sram PF30 bottom bracket. I pressed it in, and used grease - its not super tight, but if I have problems I was planning to remove and press in again using the loctite. I tried using the 3 clear washers and no luck. Shall I try using the other thinner metal spacers?
  • 05-06-2014 1:36 AM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    @saad, as long as you have the ~12.5-13mm DS spacer to properly set your chainline, you can play around with the number of shims/thin spacers on the NDS.  You can either begin subtracting one by one while applying the correct torque on the DS or remove them all and apply the torque to see how the wave-spring washer looks.  Remember, it should be somewhat pressed, but not flat.  Some BB dustcovers are thicker, so the number of spacers that are used on the NDS are subject to vary, since the wave-spring washer can ultimately apply all the bearing preload necessary. In my current setup with an Enduro PF30 Angular Contact bearings BB, I have no NDS spacers, just the wave-spring washer.  Let us know of the outcome.

  • 05-06-2014 4:54 AM In reply to

    • saad
    • Top 500 Contributor
    • Joined on 06-12-2008
    • Posts 82

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native"

    Thanks I tried with just the one washer, and that seems to work. I tried with none, and there was a small amount of play, and 2 and 3 both flattened the washer. What I do now is tighten it completely so it flat, then back off a bit. This ensure the cups are both pressed in completely, then I back off till the washer is wavy. Will know once I start riding, but seems ok!
  • 10-04-2020 11:01 PM In reply to

    Re: 2014 R3 with SRAM Force 22 BB30 "native”

    I did as Hutch instructed after installing bbinfinite bottom bracket on a Cervélo S5 2015. With dust caps on both sides, 13mm DS spacer, I placed a 2.5 mm spacer SRAM sells, no wave washer, on NDS. When I tightened down the dDS, I had a little friction when I tested the crank spin. I sanded off a little from one side of NDS spacer and measured 2.2mm thick. Installed again, Tightened, and it spun awesome!
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